How to Controlling Small Hive Beetles in a Bee Hive

Golden nugget: Count beetles on each frame during inspection - 1-2 beetles per frame is manageable for strong colonies, but 5+ beetles per frame indicates serious infestation requiring immediate intervention regardless of colony strength. Focus inspection on areas where beetles hide: corners of frames, under inner covers, along bottom boards, and in burr comb. Check for larvae (white grubs 1/4 to 3/8 inch long) which indicate active reproduction. Look for slimed-out honey with orange crush smell - this fermented honey means larvae have been feeding extensively. Assess colony population relative to hive space - weak colonies with excess empty comb are most vulnerable. Strong colonies with 8+ frames of bees can typically handle moderate beetle pressure naturally. Document beetle locations and numbers to track treatment effectiveness. Pay special attention to shaded hives as beetles prefer dark conditions.

Golden nugget: Move hives into full sunlight exposure - beetles prefer shaded conditions and sunny locations can reduce beetle populations by 60-80% compared to forested areas, while also improving overall colony health through better foraging conditions. Remove excess empty comb and reduce hive space to match bee population, forcing bees to patrol all available space effectively. Clean bottom boards of debris, dead bees, and pollen buildup that provides protein sources for beetle reproduction. Process honey within 1-2 days of removal as unprocessed supers are beetle magnets. Store empty supers with good air circulation and less than 50% humidity to prevent beetle breeding. Remove pollen traps during heavy infestation periods as unprotected pollen feeds beetles. Maintain strong varroa mite control as mite-weakened colonies cannot defend against beetles effectively.

Golden nugget: Place traps in diagonal corners of each hive body, alternating corners as you go up levels - this forces beetles to cross trap zones no matter where they try to hide, and the diagonal placement doesn't interfere with bee traffic patterns along frame edges. Use 2 traps per hive body for maximum effectiveness. Fill traps 1/3 full with vegetable oil or mineral oil - overfilling makes them messy and harder to handle. For baited traps, add small piece of pollen patty or commercial lure to attract beetles. Check and refill traps every 1-2 weeks, more frequently in hot weather when oil evaporates faster. Clean traps away from hives to avoid dripping attractants on comb. Replace Swiffer-type traps when they become heavily loaded with beetles or lose their fuzzy texture that traps beetles.

Golden nugget: Apply beneficial nematodes in late evening (7-10 PM) when beetle larvae naturally exit hives to enter soil for pupation - this timing maximizes contact between nematodes and vulnerable larvae during their most active migration period. Focus treatment within 36 inches of hive as 100% of larvae pupate within this zone, with 82% staying within 24 inches. Pre-wet soil before application and irrigate after to ensure nematodes can move freely through soil moisture film. Mix 5 million nematodes in 10 gallons of water for 10 hives, applying 1 gallon per hive in expanding circles around each hive base. Avoid UV exposure which kills nematodes instantly - apply during overcast conditions or evening hours. For diatomaceous earth, apply 4-6 inch deep layer in 3-foot circle but avoid areas where bees might contact it during foraging.

Golden nugget: Use Freeman-style trap systems as your primary defense because they work 24/7 without disturbing bees during inspections, and the screened bottom board provides essential ventilation that stronger colonies need to resist beetle pressure effectively. Fill collection tray with vegetable oil (cheapest option) or diatomaceous earth, maintaining 1/3 fill level for optimal capture without overflow mess. Position tray so it can be accessed from rear without opening hive. Check weekly during beetle season, disposing of oil 50+ feet from hives to avoid attracting more beetles to the area. Clean screens monthly to prevent clogging with debris. Consider adding IPM board above oil tray for varroa monitoring - strong varroa control is essential for beetle resistance. Replace screened bottom with solid board only during coldest winter months when ventilation becomes secondary to heat retention.

Golden nugget: Track beetles per frame before and after treatment using consistent counting method - successful treatment should show 80-90% reduction in adult beetle numbers within 2-3 weeks, and complete elimination of larvae indicates successful interruption of breeding cycle. Document trap catches weekly to identify population trends and peak activity periods. Look for behavioral changes: beetles becoming more active and visible during day indicates trap effectiveness is driving them from hiding spots. Check for fresh slimed honey which indicates ongoing larval activity despite treatment. Strong colonies should show increased brood area and improved cluster size as beetle pressure decreases. Failed treatments show continued larvae presence, increasing fermented honey smell, and possible absconding behavior. Take photos of trap contents to track seasonal patterns and share data with local beekeeping community for area-wide management strategies.

Golden nugget: Only use CheckMite+ when colony survival is threatened and other methods have failed - cut strip in half, staple to 5x5 inch corrugated cardboard, place on bottom board creating hiding space that exposes beetles to coumaphos while bees chase them underneath. Never hang strips between frames as this contaminates all comb permanently. Mark all treated equipment permanently as it can never be used for honey production again due to coumaphos persistence in wax. Wear chemical-resistant gloves (never leather bee gloves) and handle with tools to avoid skin contact. Remove after exactly 42-45 days regardless of outside temperature - delayed removal increases contamination. Combine with soil drench treatment for complete lifecycle interruption. Consider this a colony-saving measure that permanently compromises equipment value. Many beekeepers prefer to requeen weak colonies rather than use chemical treatments.

Golden nugget: Coordinate treatment timing with neighboring beekeepers within 5-mile radius since beetles can fly this distance to reinfest treated hives - area-wide management is far more effective than individual hive treatments in high-pressure regions. Maintain year-round trap systems as beetles can overwinter in colonies and emerge when conditions improve. Practice rapid honey processing and avoid leaving supers on weak colonies. Store empty equipment properly with good ventilation and low humidity. Remove and destroy heavily infested comb rather than trying to save contaminated equipment. Consider breeding or purchasing queens with hygienic behavior traits that naturally remove beetle eggs and larvae. Locate hives on hard clay or rocky soil rather than sandy soil which favors beetle pupation. Eliminate nearby compost piles or treat them with nematodes as they serve as beetle breeding reservoirs.