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How to Get Rid of Squirrels in Your Attic
Squirrels in an attic are a different problem than mice or bats — they chew wiring (a leading cause of attic fires), shred insulation for nests, and have flightless babies twice a year that you cannot legally trap and abandon. The only durable solution is exclusion done in the right season: install one-way doors so adults can leave but not return, wait for the litter to mature enough to follow mom out, then seal every entry point. Done right it's a 1–3 week project. Done wrong, you have dead squirrels rotting in a wall.
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0 of 11 steps completedStep-by-Step Instructions
1 Step 1: Confirm it is squirrels (not roof rats, not raccoons)
Step 1: Confirm it is squirrels (not roof rats, not raccoons)
Squirrels are loud, daytime-active, and stop completely overnight — the noise pattern is diagnostic. Rats are quieter and active at dawn/dusk and through the night. Raccoons sound enormous, vocalize (chirps, growls), and are nighttime-active. Squirrel droppings are oblong pellets larger than mouse droppings; raccoon droppings are tubular and the size of a small dog's. Get the ID right — raccoons need a wildlife control professional, not a DIY exclusion.
2 Step 2: Check the calendar — there are babies twice a year
Step 2: Check the calendar — there are babies twice a year
Eastern gray squirrels have two litter windows in most of the US: February–April and August–September. Excluding during a litter window strands flightless babies inside, where they die in walls and smell for months. If you hear high-pitched chirping or scratching that lasts hours without an adult presence, there are babies in there. Wait 6–8 weeks from the start of the litter window before excluding, OR open the attic and have a wildlife control specialist relocate the litter physically (it's a state-by-state rules situation).
3 Step 3: Find every entry point
Step 3: Find every entry point
Squirrels typically use one obvious entry but maintain backup holes. Daytime: watch the exterior with binoculars at dawn (peak activity) and note where they enter. Then walk the perimeter looking for: gnawed soffit corners (the most common entry), gable vents with bent louvers, roof-edge gaps where the fascia meets the soffit, chimney without a cap, plumbing-vent boots, where two rooflines meet at different heights. Mark every chew mark, even old ones — they'll be used again.
Binoculars for roofline inspection
Watch the entry from 50 ft away without spooking the squirrels. Any 8x or 10x outdoor binoculars work.
4 Step 4: Install a one-way exclusion door over the main entry
Step 4: Install a one-way exclusion door over the main entry
An exclusion door is a one-way flap or cone that lets squirrels exit but won't open inward. Mount one over the primary entry; do NOT seal any of the secondary entries yet — you'll trap squirrels inside if you only leave one exit and they don't all find it. Leave the door in place for 4–7 days of dry weather and check daily.
Tomahawk squirrel one-way exclusion door
Spring-loaded one-way door sized for squirrels and chipmunks. Mounts over a 4-inch chewed hole; the spring keeps it from being forced back open.
DIY one-way door (1/2-inch hardware cloth funnel)
Roll hardware cloth into a tapered cone, mount the wide end over the hole. The University of Florida extension method; works as well as the commercial version at 1/10 the cost.
5 Step 5: Seal all secondary entries with heavy hardware cloth
Step 5: Seal all secondary entries with heavy hardware cloth
While the exclusion door is up, seal every other gap you found — but leave the main one alone. Hardware cloth (1/4-inch galvanized) covered by trim or replacement soffit board is what holds. Foam alone and quarter-inch plywood patches both fail; squirrels chew straight through them. Use stainless steel screws so the patches don't pull loose in a year.
Galvanized hardware cloth (1/4-inch, 36"x10 ft)
Bat-proof and squirrel-proof mesh. Cut to fit secondary entries and screw in place. Used in conjunction with foam fill behind the mesh.
Stainless steel screws (exterior, #8 x 1-1/2)
Don't use drywall screws — they rust and break. Stainless or coated-deck screws hold the hardware-cloth patch for the life of the house.
6 Step 6: Wait 4–7 days; confirm the attic is empty
Step 6: Wait 4–7 days; confirm the attic is empty
Listen daily; sprinkle flour at the exclusion door so footprints tell you the direction of last activity. Once you've had 48 hours with no inbound prints and no scratching noise, the attic is empty. Confirm by entering the attic in PPE and looking at known harborage spots. Don't skip this step — a single trapped squirrel decomposing in a wall is a months-long stink problem.
7 Step 7: Remove the one-way door and permanently seal the main entry
Step 7: Remove the one-way door and permanently seal the main entry
Take down the exclusion door. Seal the main entry the same way you sealed the secondary ones — hardware cloth + screws + trim — and finish the exterior with paintable caulk and matching paint. This is the moment you stop being a temporary fix and become permanent.
8 Step 8: Trim tree branches 8+ ft away from the roofline
Step 8: Trim tree branches 8+ ft away from the roofline
Squirrels jump 8–10 feet. A branch hanging within that range of the roof is an invitation for the next squirrel. Prune back any branch within 8 ft of the roofline; ideally 10 ft to be safe. This is the single most important PREVENTIVE step and the one most homeowners skip.
Fiskars 16-ft extendable pole pruner
Reach low branches from the ground without a ladder. Pruning saw + lopper attachment for branches up to 1.5 inches. The right tool for the 'prune back from the roof' task.
9 Step 9: Inspect and replace chewed wiring
Step 9: Inspect and replace chewed wiring
Squirrels chew wires — this is not optional. Once the attic is empty, walk every visible electrical run with a flashlight and look for stripped insulation. Any exposed copper is a fire hazard. If you find damage, kill the breaker and call an electrician; don't tape over it. Insurance claims from squirrel-caused attic fires routinely run six figures.
Voltage detector (non-contact)
Pen-style tool that beeps near live wires. Confirms a chewed wire is live before you call the electrician, and confirms the breaker is off before you touch the damaged section.
10 Step 10: Install chimney cap and gable-vent guards
Step 10: Install chimney cap and gable-vent guards
Two squirrel highways most homes have unprotected: open chimneys and standard gable vents (the louvered triangles in the gable ends). Chimney caps prevent re-entry permanently. Gable vents need 1/4-inch hardware cloth installed on the INTERIOR of the vent, not the exterior — leaves clog exterior screens.
Stainless-steel chimney cap
Stainless mesh + rain cap that bolts to a flue tile. Permanent fix to the most common attic entry point in older homes.
Gable vent screen kit
Pre-cut 1/4-inch hardware cloth panels sized to common gable-vent dimensions. Installs on the inside of the louver in 10 minutes.
11 Step 11: Clean and disinfect; replace contaminated insulation
Step 11: Clean and disinfect; replace contaminated insulation
Squirrel-occupied attics have urine-soaked insulation, scattered droppings, and shredded nesting material. PPE (P100 + Tyvek + gloves), wet down before scooping, bag and trash, then vacuum with a certified HEPA. Replace insulation in any soaked sections. Enzyme deodorizer on stained framing removes the scent that draws the next squirrel back.
Enzyme deodorizer (Bac-Azap)
Same product as the bat protocol — enzyme-based attic deodorizer. Removes urine-marker scent so the next squirrel doesn't smell 'home' when scouting.
Snap traps or "humane" cage traps
Warning: Most US states prohibit relocating squirrels (it spreads disease and the relocated animal typically dies within days). Even where legal, trapping is less effective than exclusion: you remove a few, others move in, and you've done no exclusion work. Skip trapping; do exclusion.
Live-trap or kill-trap the squirrels inside as the strategy.
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