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How to Change a Flat Tire
Changing a flat is a 20-minute roadside fix if you have the right tools and know the sequence. Most cars come with the basics — jack, lug wrench, spare — but they're built for emergencies only. A real bottle jack + breaker bar make it a different job.
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0 of 5 steps completedStep-by-Step Instructions
1 Step 1: Park safely on flat hard ground
Step 1: Park safely on flat hard ground
Get fully off the road. Engage parking brake. Turn on hazards. If on a hill, block the opposite-corner wheel with a rock or wheel chock.
Pull onto a flat shoulder, engage parking brake
Soft shoulder or grass = unstable jack. Find pavement or hard-packed dirt. Don't change a tire in a traffic lane.
Roadside reflective triangles (3-pack)
Place behind your vehicle to alert traffic. ~$25.
Wheel chock
Block the wheel diagonally opposite the flat to prevent rolling. ~$15.
2 Step 2: Loosen lug nuts BEFORE jacking
Step 2: Loosen lug nuts BEFORE jacking
Break the lugs loose while the tire is still on the ground — easier with the wheel's weight holding it steady. Counterclockwise. Just loosen 1/4 turn each; don't remove yet.
Warning: Trying to loosen lugs while the wheel is in the air spins the wheel. Always crack them loose with the tire on the ground.
Use a breaker bar (not the included lug wrench)
1/2" drive breaker bar with 19mm or 21mm socket. The factory L-shaped wrench rounds off lugs over time. ~$30-40.
Stand or stomp on the wrench for stubborn lugs
Lug nuts torqued at the tire shop are 80-100 ft-lb. Use your body weight, not your arms.
Penetrating oil for rusted lugs
PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Spray, wait 5 minutes, try again. Stops stripped nuts. ~$8.
3 Step 3: Jack the car up
Step 3: Jack the car up
Find the jack point — usually a reinforced rail near the wheel well, marked with a triangle or notch in the car's manual. Center the jack under it, then crank/pump.
Hydraulic floor jack (3-ton)
Way faster and safer than a scissor jack. Pittsburgh 3-ton, $90. Get a real jack — the factory scissor is for emergencies only.
Scissor jack (included in your car)
Slow but works. Find the jack point per your owner's manual. Hand crank.
Jack stand for safety (always pair with jack)
Set the stand under the car frame after jacking. Lower the jack onto the stand. NEVER work under a car on the jack alone. ~$45 for a pair.
4 Step 4: Remove lugs, swap tires
Step 4: Remove lugs, swap tires
Unscrew lugs the rest of the way. Pull the flat off. Mount the spare. Slide on lugs by hand — finger-tight in a star pattern. The pattern matters; sequential tightening warps brake rotors.
Star pattern: top → bottom → left → right (5-lug)
Hand-tighten in this order. Same order again when torquing later. Even pressure prevents rotor warping.
Anti-seize on the threads (optional)
Light coat prevents future seizing. Not strictly necessary; some shops won't touch lugs with anti-seize. ~$8.
5 Step 5: Lower car, torque lugs to spec
Step 5: Lower car, torque lugs to spec
Lower the car. Get the full tightening done with a torque wrench — most passenger cars are 80-100 ft-lb. Same star pattern.
1/2" torque wrench (25-250 ft-lb)
Click-style torque wrench. Set to your vehicle's spec (look up the number). ~$45.
Recheck torque after 50 miles
Lugs can settle slightly after driving. Pull over, retorque each lug. Once is enough.
Get the flat repaired or replaced ASAP
Spares are temporary — most are limited to 50 miles at 50 mph. Don't keep driving on it. Discount Tire patches plug-able flats free.
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