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How to Install a Kitchen Faucet
Replacing a kitchen faucet looks intimidating but is a straightforward 60-minute DIY. The trickiest part is reaching the mounting nuts under the sink — a basin wrench makes it a different job. This walks through faucet selection, shutoff, removal of the old unit, install, and the leak check.
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0 of 8 steps completedStep-by-Step Instructions
1 Step 1: Pick a faucet
Step 1: Pick a faucet
Match the existing sink hole count (1, 3, or 4 holes). Pull-down sprayer faucets are the modern default. Avoid no-name brands — they leak in 2-3 years; major brands have lifetime warranties.
Moen Arbor pull-down kitchen faucet
MotionSense touchless option, Spot Resist finish hides fingerprints. Lifetime warranty. ~$300-350.
Delta Essa pull-down kitchen faucet
Touch-activation (Touch2O), pull-down sprayer with MagnaTite docking. The single most-installed mid-tier faucet. ~$250-300.
Kohler Bellera pull-down kitchen faucet
Industrial styling, three spray modes, ceramic disc valve. ~$200-260.
WEWE single-handle high-arc pull-down (budget)
Amazon-popular budget pick. 3-year warranty, decent quality for the price. ~$60-90.
2 Step 2: Get the tools
Step 2: Get the tools
A basin wrench is the single tool that makes this job sane — its angled jaw reaches mounting nuts that are impossible to access with a regular wrench. Plumber's tape (PTFE) seals threaded connections.
RIDGID basin wrench (10-17")
Telescoping handle, swivel jaw, fits any sink. ~$25-32.
Plumber's tape (PTFE), 1/2" × 520"
Wrap threaded connections 4-6 times clockwise before screwing on the next part. Stops drips. ~$3-5 for 5 rolls.
5-gal bucket (for drips during removal)
Put under the existing faucet supply lines to catch water when you disconnect. ~$5.
Flashlight or headlamp
Under-sink lighting is universally bad. A headlamp keeps both hands free. ~$15-25 for a basic one.
3 Step 3: Shut off water and disconnect supply lines
Step 3: Shut off water and disconnect supply lines
Under the sink, find the two shut-off valves (one for hot, one for cold) and turn each clockwise until they stop. Turn on the faucet to confirm no water flows. Place a bucket under the connection points, then unscrew the supply lines from the valves with channel-lock pliers.
Warning: If your shut-off valves are corroded and won't turn, shut off water at the house main and replace the valves (separate job) before continuing. Don't force a frozen valve — you'll snap the pipe inside the wall.
Shut off both hot and cold under-sink valves
Turn clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to drain residual pressure and confirm flow has stopped.
Disconnect supply lines with channel-locks
Hold the valve body steady with one wrench while turning the supply line nut with the other. Catches water in your bucket.
Photograph existing connections
Phone photos of how everything is hooked up. Reference for the reinstall.
4 Step 4: Remove the old faucet from the sink deck
Step 4: Remove the old faucet from the sink deck
Climb (mostly) under the sink. Use the basin wrench to remove the mounting nuts on the underside of the faucet. Once loose, the old faucet lifts straight up off the sink. Clean any old plumber's putty or sealant off the sink deck with a putty knife.
Use basin wrench on mounting nuts
The angled jaw reaches behind the sink basin. Turn counterclockwise (lefty-loosey). Once nuts are off, the faucet lifts free.
Scrape old sealant off the sink deck
Putty knife removes old plumber's putty or silicone. New faucet needs a clean smooth surface to seal against.
Disconnect sprayer hose (if separate)
Older faucets with side sprayers have an extra hose. Disconnect at the underside fitting before lifting the faucet out.
5 Step 5: Install the new faucet
Step 5: Install the new faucet
Most modern faucets have a single insert (or 3 separate hot/cold/spout) and a rubber gasket or deck plate that seals against the sink. Drop it through the hole(s) from above, then from below, slide on the mounting plate and threaded mounting nuts. Tighten with the basin wrench until snug — don't overtighten or you'll crack the deck plate.
Drop in from above, secure from below
Use the rubber gasket or deck plate included with the faucet. No plumber's putty needed on modern faucets — they have built-in seals.
Hand-tighten mounting nuts first, then 1/4 turn with wrench
Hand-tight + 1/4 turn is enough. Overtightening cracks porcelain sinks and warps stainless ones.
6 Step 6: Connect new supply lines
Step 6: Connect new supply lines
Use the new supply lines included with the faucet (or buy braided stainless steel ones — way more reliable than old rubber). Wrap the threaded connections in 4-6 turns of plumber's tape. Hand-tighten, then 1/4 turn with channel-locks.
Braided stainless steel supply lines, 20"
Get a pair if not included. Pre-attached ferrules, lifetime warranty. ~$10-15 per pair.
Plumber's tape on all threaded connections
4-6 wraps clockwise around the threads. Critical for leak-free joints.
Hand-tight + 1/4 turn
Same rule as mounting nuts. Snug them — don't crank them. Over-torqued supply lines crack the valve seats.
7 Step 7: Hook up the sprayer hose (pull-down models)
Step 7: Hook up the sprayer hose (pull-down models)
Pull-down faucets have a weighted hose that retracts into the body. Attach the supplied weight to the hose at the bracket location specified in the instructions — usually 8-12 inches below the spout. Without the weight, the spray head doesn't retract properly.
Attach hose weight at correct height
Most faucets diagram the exact placement. Loose weight = head won't retract; too tight = head retracts hard and bangs the spout. Test pull-and-retract before declaring done.
Connect quick-disconnect at spray head
Modern pull-down spray heads click on with a quick-release fitting. Make sure you hear the click — half-engaged fittings leak under load.
8 Step 8: Turn water back on and check for leaks
Step 8: Turn water back on and check for leaks
Slowly turn on the hot and cold under-sink valves. Run the faucet at full flow for 1 minute, both hot and cold. Then crawl under and look at every connection with a flashlight. Touch each joint with a paper towel — any dampness = leak. Tighten 1/8 turn at a time until dry.
Warning: Check for leaks 30 minutes after turning water on, again after 24 hours. Slow weeps don't show up immediately but soak the cabinet floor overnight. Catching it at 24 hours saves the cabinet.
Recheck at 30 min and 24 hr
Slow seeps appear with time. Set a phone reminder to crawl back under and check the cabinet floor for damp at both intervals.
Slowly open shut-off valves
Fast opening can hammer the new connections. Open valves slowly over 5-10 seconds. Listen for any hissing.
Touch each joint with a paper towel after 60 sec of flow
Damp = leak. Visible drips = bigger leak. Tighten 1/8 turn and retest. Repeat until completely dry.
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