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How to Replace Brake Pads
Brake pads wear down every 30-60k miles. The DIY swap is 90 minutes for both fronts (the more-worn pair). Shops charge $300-400 — DIY parts are $50-150. The big catch: rotors that are warped or thinned past spec also need replacement (another $80-150 in parts).
Your Progress
0 of 6 steps completedStep-by-Step Instructions
1 Step 1: Diagnose if you need rotors too
Step 1: Diagnose if you need rotors too
Pads wear; rotors may need resurfacing or replacement. Check rotor thickness vs the minimum stamped on the edge. Warped rotors cause pulsation when braking. New rotors are cheap; resurfacing is a waste of money.
Replace rotors with pads (recommended)
New rotors are $30-60 each. Resurfacing costs $25 and shortens rotor life. Just replace.
Measure thickness with caliper
Min thickness stamped on the rotor edge. Below = replace. Above = pads only OK.
Check for warping (pulse when braking)
Steering wheel shake or pulse during braking = warped rotors. Replace.
2 Step 2: Get the parts (brand-matched pads + rotors)
Step 2: Get the parts (brand-matched pads + rotors)
Ceramic pads are quieter but cost more. Semi-metallic are louder but stop better and last longer in heat. OEM-equivalent pads are best for most drivers; performance pads for spirited driving only.
Bosch QuietCast Ceramic Pads
Premium ceramic, near-OEM quality. ~$50-70 per axle.
Akebono Pro-ACT Ceramic
Japanese-made ceramic. Quietest brake pad available. Used on Toyota and Honda factory. ~$65-85.
Wagner ThermoQuiet Ceramic (budget)
Decent budget pads. Quieter than semi-metallic. ~$30-45.
Centric Premium rotors (per pair)
Solid mid-tier rotors. Replace in pairs (both fronts together). ~$60-100 for two.
3 Step 3: Lift, remove wheel, access caliper
Step 3: Lift, remove wheel, access caliper
Loosen lugs while wheel is on the ground. Jack car, set on stand. Remove wheel. The caliper (the c-shaped thing on the rotor) holds two pads with two bolts on the back.
Warning: ALWAYS use jack stands. Hydraulic jacks can fail; jack stands lock at a fixed height. Never work under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack.
Lug nut socket (19mm or 21mm)
Match to your lugs. 6-point sockets prevent rounding. ~$10.
Jack stands (always paired with jack)
Torin 3-ton pair. Lock at fixed height for safety. ~$45.
Wheel chock for rear wheels
Prevents rolling while front is in the air. ~$15.
4 Step 4: Remove caliper bolts and compress piston
Step 4: Remove caliper bolts and compress piston
Two bolts on the back of the caliper (usually 14mm or 17mm). Remove them; the caliper lifts off. Hang it from the spring with wire — DON'T let it dangle on the brake line. Compress the piston with a c-clamp or piston tool to make room for new (thicker) pads.
C-clamp to compress piston (cheap method)
Big c-clamp with one of the old pads as a buffer. Slowly squeeze the piston back into the caliper. ~$15.
Brake caliper piston compression tool
Dedicated tool for some cars (especially rear brakes where you must rotate the piston). ~$30-40.
Hang caliper from coil spring with wire
Don't let it dangle on the brake line — can damage. Use a coat hanger or zip tie to a spring.
5 Step 5: Swap pads, reinstall, repeat on other side
Step 5: Swap pads, reinstall, repeat on other side
Slide old pads out of their carriers. Drop new pads in (note any direction arrows). Reinstall caliper, torque bolts to spec. Repeat on opposite wheel. NEVER do just one side.
Apply brake quiet to pad backs
Permatex Disc Brake Quiet — silicone goo on pad backs reduces squeal. ~$8.
Note direction arrows on pads (some have them)
Some pads have an 'inboard' or 'outboard' marking, or directional arrows. Install per spec.
Torque caliper bolts to spec (per owner's manual)
Usually 50-90 ft-lb. Search your car's torque specs. Under-torque = caliper rattles; over-torque = stripped threads.
6 Step 6: Pump brakes BEFORE driving
Step 6: Pump brakes BEFORE driving
First time you start the car, the brake pedal will go to the floor — that's normal. Pump the brake pedal 5-10 times until it firms up. This pushes the piston back out against the new pads. Don't skip this step or your first stop will be a panic-stop with no brakes.
Warning: If you don't pump the pedal first, your first brake press will go to the floor with no stopping power. Pump 5-10 times until firm BEFORE moving the car.
Pump brake pedal 5-10 times before driving
Pushes pistons back out, restores brake pressure. Pedal goes from soft to firm.
Bed in new pads (first 200 miles)
Avoid hard stops the first 200 miles. New pads need gradual heat cycles to fully cure their friction surface.
Check brake fluid level after job
Compressing the piston pushes fluid back into the master cylinder. If reservoir was full, it may overflow during the job. Top off if needed.
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